The Ancient Trail of the Fish of the Gods The Old Hida Kaido

The Old Hida Kaido, running from Toyama Bay to Shinshu via the Hida area, was known as the "Buri Kaido" (Yellowtail Highway). Yellowtail, referred to as the "fish of the gods," was transported by porters and oxen, and was eaten as an auspicious New Year's Eve dish in the landlocked Shinshu region.

Old Hida Highway and the Kiso Region

The 300 kilometer-long highway that runs from Etchu (Toyama) through Hida (Northern Gifu) to Shinshu (Nagano) transported goods from Takayama to Matsumoto, the Kiso Valley, Iida, and other areas. The old highway still remains in the Kiso region, and has been developed into a hiking trail that is loved by many who reminisce about life in the past and also those who enjoy forest bathing.

Value of Yellowtail Along the Old Hida Kaido

The value of one yellowtail, which cost one sack (to) of rice at the port in Toyama, increased to one large sack (hyō) of rice in Shinshu after being transported via the rugged Hida Highway. Yellowtail was prized as a fish of good fortune, with the winter yellowtail caught along the Sea of Japan coast considered the finest delicacy. In Shinshu, it was said that New Year's could not be celebrated without a yellowtail, highlighting its significance. This sacred fish was often an offering to the gods, and in western Japan, a culture developed where yellowtail tails and fins were used to decorate gifts.

Yellowtail

Along with sea bream, yellowtail is prized as a fish of good omen by Japanese people, and has different names as it grows older. Yellowtail caught in Toyama and other areas on the Sea of Japan coast are the most sought after, and in particular the ‘Kanburi’ caught in November and December are said to be the most delicious seasonal delicacy from the Sea of Japan, due to them having put on a nice layer of fat in preparation for spawning.

Fish of the Gods

This auspiciousness and purity means yellowtail is considered a worthy offering to the gods. In cultures that have such reverence for the yellowtail such as in western Japan, yellowtail tails were hung from the eaves of houses, and the tails and fins of cooked yellowtail were used to decorate gifts.

Stone Buddha Statues Along the Old Hida Kaido

Along the Old Hida Kaido, there are many stone Buddha statues, including Batō Kannon, Dainichi Nyorai, and Dōsojin. These statues continue to watch over travelers, protecting them from inclement weather, and have long been objects of worship for local people.

Kiso Horse

The Kiso horse is a unique breed from the Kiso region of Japan and is characterised by its short legs and long body. Because they were bred in mountainous areas, they have a reputation for strong legs and a sturdy build. The Kiso Koma, which is based on the small, gentle Kiso horse, is a much-loved traditional wooden toy born in Shinshu.

Recommended Trail Guide

1.The Old Hida Kaido Hiwada Section

• Start:Ichiinomori Hachiman Shrine
• Goal:Yamashita Family Residence
• Distance:11km
• Time:7 hours
• Ascent:450m, Descent:480m (cumulative)

This trail leads from Ichiinomori Hachiman Shrine, surrounded by auspicious ichii (yew) trees, which are said to bring success in academics and business, through three passes (Maesaka, Nagamine, and Sekiya) to the Yamashita Family Residence. With stone Buddha statues at each pass and views of Mt. Ontake from Nagamine Toge Pass, the trail offers a journey through Japanese history and nature.

2.The Old Hida Kaido Nishino Toge
Pass Section

• Start:Yamashita Family Residence
• Goal:Kaida Shisho Mae Bus Stop
• Distance:4.8km
• Time:3 hours
• Ascent:210m, Descent:270m (cumulative)

Starting from the Yamashita Family Residence, this trail leads through Nishino Toge Pass to Shiroyama Observatory. From the 1,422-meter Observatory point, you can view Mt. Ontake, Mt. Norikura, and Mt. Kiso-Komagatake, as well as the rural landscape of the Nishino area. The village of Tabanosawa, below the pass, offers scenes of peaceful countryside life.

3.Old Hida Kaido Jizo Toge Pass Section

• Start:Karasawa Falls
• Goal:Kaida Kogen Tourist Information Center
• Distance:8.5km
• Time:6 hours
• Ascent:300m, Descent:240m (cumulative)

The trail begins at the 50-meter Karasawa Falls, proceeds through the Jizo Toge Pass Observatory with views of Mt. Ontake, passes stone Buddha statues in Suekawa Village, and ends at the Kaida Kogen Tourist Information Center.

4.Joyama Historic Forest Hiking Course

• Start:Kiso-Fukushima Station
• Goal:Kiso-Fukushima Station
• Distance:9.5km
• Time:6 hours
• Ascent:340m, Descent:370m (cumulative)

From Kiso-Fukushima Station, this circular route passes through the old Nakasendo road and Fukushima post town, leading to Gongen Falls via Joyama Historic Forest where the Fukushima Castle ruins can be found. The falls, visited by historical hero Kiso Yoshinaka, is a sacred spot marked by a statue of Acala.