It is no secret that the city of Kyoto is a treasure chest.  Home to over 2000 Buddhist temples and Shrines shrines, it is difficult to choose which to visit.  The best and most beautiful tend to be at the city’s edges, nestled amongst the green hills that encircle the city like a horseshoe.  The vast array of hiking trails have origins dating to the most ancient times, utilized by locals as arteries that fed their daily lives. 

One of these trails has been dubbed the Kyoto Isshu Trail, or Kyoto Circuit Trail. This 70 kilometer route was developed in stages from Higashiyama to Nishiyama between 1993 and 2005. (The non-adjacent Keihoku Course was opened in 2010, while 2014’s Fushimi-Fukakusa Route extended the existing Higashiyama Course an additional 9.5 kilometers to the south.)  Not long after moving to Kyoto, I walked the entire route over a series of day trips.  In theory, the entire route can be walked in five days, allowing the visitor with a week or so to spare to follow the trail as it intersects most of Kyoto’s highlights, followed by a couple of additional days to focus on the city center.  

The trail’s initial section is one of the best.  Starting at Kyoto’s iconic Fushimi Inari Shrine, after a steep climb to the overlook, one can leave behind the hordes armed with self-sticks by following a path that drops sharply down to some atmospheric groves of mini shrines, somewhat spooky in the dim light of the bamboo forest surrounding them.

Ample signage leads next to the Sennyu-ji and Tofuku-ji areas, whose cluster of temples serve as satisfying detours, A handful of restaurants below prove a good lunch stop, Dragon Burger being a personal favorite. 

A good way to finish the day is to leave the trail as it climbs again just before the back gate of Kiyomizu-dera, whose unique beauty is sufficient distraction from the inevitable crowds.  Brave those crowds to follow the cobblestoned Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka paths down toward Chion-in, through a picturesque landscape that harkens the Japan of old, in search of ice cream or beer or whatever reward seems appropriate after a good first day. 

Above Kiyomizu, the Isshu Trail sticks to the hills for awhile, as the views of the city below playing peek-a-boo trough the trees.  Temples encountered along the way are definitely off the usual tourist route, and therefore well worth a visit, in order to engage with the quiet that all temples should rightly have.  The trail will begin to climb in earnest toward Mt. Daimonji, but descend again just before the peak, to join the famed Path of Philosophy.  You may think of lunch as the route wends through the quiet neighborhoods at the base of the hills. There are ample detours from here, namely the Ginkaku-ji silver pavilion. This also may be a good time to call it a day, for the next section is up the steep slopes of Mt. Hiei.  (Those with energy might climb onward to the cable car station, with a pleasant ride back down to the train line in the valley below.) 

The climb up Hiei is long and gradual, punctuated by peaceful-visaged statuary and hidden temple halls, all lorded over by majestic cedars.  The grander halls and the cooler climes feel centuries away from town.  Beyond this main temple complex, the walker will undergo a bit of a rollercoaster course as the trail rises and drops over a series of smaller peaks.  Along the way, a trail junction with the Tōkai Shuzen Hodō course allows the hiker the option of dropping into the old village of Ohara, for an afternoon’s exploration. 

Otherwise, stick with the Isshu Trail as it drops sharply to Route 367.  A relatively easy climb will take you up and over Esumi Pass, marked with its beautiful shrine, before descending to the quiet village of Shizuhara., nestled in its pocket of hills. It will be another steep climb up Yakkōzaka at the far end, then an equally steep descent to the base of Kurama Temple.  Trains back to the city depart from here, but the walker could continue on through the village and along the river for another two kilometers to Ninose.

While the following day should rightly begin in Ninose, I recommend returning by train to Kurama station, and following the detour up to the grand temple further up the mountain, this being one of Kyoto’s best day hikes.  There is an air of isolated mystery here, the ancient statues looking harshly at any obstacles on ones path.  Atop the mountain is an open space whose floor is a spiderweb of tree roots, which also served as steps of a sort as they line the trail heading downward toward Kibune.  You could do worse than to lunch at one of the Kawaboko restaurants built over the stream.  (Roughly May through September, reservations being essential.) 

Follow the river back to Ninose station to rejoin the Isshu Trail again. (This being a long day, you could instead return to the city and return to Ninose the following day.)  The path climbs steeply into the forest where it will remain, taking the hiker up and over a series of smaller peaks to the high elevation Sawanoike Pond, then on to Takao and its famed trio of temples.  Buses can return you to the city.

The final section is another highlight of the entire route. Returning to Takao, you’ll follow the ever-winding river back toward town, stopping for a refreshing dip along the way. 

Climbing up from Ochiai, one will soon reenter civilization, following the timelessly picturesque country lane to play connect the dots with the numerous temples of Saga and Arashiyama. 

After a quick lunch, the only real climb of the day brings the hiker up to an unnamed peak, before a final descent past a few of Kyoto’s hidden temples to pick up the train at Kamikatsura station. 

Visitors pressed for time could simply do the first day and the first half of the final day, as those take in a large number of Kyoto’s top sights, but enable you to lose the crowds in between.  You could also add the Kurama detour, or take the cable car to walk the Hiei-zan section in either direction, simply to gain some elevation. Besides some good days out in the hills, the Kyoto Isshu Trail allows you to see some of the city’s highlights, as well as a number of lesser, quieter ones.  It is a wonderful primer to all that Kyoto has to offer, and the varied face of the its neighborhoods and stratified history.

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